Turned the key and all I got was a click, so I switched to battery #2 and she fired right up.
Later, the same click on either or both batteries. Bought a new starting battery and made sure it was fully charged. Same click, but no spin. Connected the remote switch to the solonoid so I could try it from the engine compartment. I could feel a hefty click at the starter with my hand, but no spin, or grunt or any other sound. Just the click.
I moved the flywheel with a screwdriver about 3 teeth to make sure the motor wasn't froze up; she moved easily. Tried the starter again and she lit right up. And again and again she lit up. I'm still a little worried about a problem out on the water so I stood on my head and had to use a mirror to pull the starter. It looks very new and clean and everything works as it should on the bench.
I first thought I'd take it to the rebuilder, but found a NIB OEM on the Internet for $60.
The new starter came with a couple shims. I didn't find shims when I removed the old one.
A little poking around on the internet and I find the procedure for deciding whether to use the shim(s) or not, even have the option of using only 1/2 of a shim. But alas, the measuring cannot be done with the motor in the boat, so I'll mount the new starter sans shims and see what happens. Could be that my old starter was OK, just needed a shim?
The new starter is in and working as it should...at least for the 8 times I tried it. But hey, I gotta tell you, if I did this more often I'd have to come up with a better way to torque those bolts - no way to read the needle wrench upside down - had to have a clicker...and at an angle to clear the oil pan.
The eternal truth of things mechanical? "Only the most difficult parts, to reach, cause the most trouble."
ReplyDeleteOf course you could always re-install your "patent pending" engine hoist and start the engine on the bench. Nah!