When I bought the boat about 4 years ago, the trailer tires were "new". They were new to the trailer maybe, but those 8 X 14.5 ST tires were born over 8 years before they were put on the trailer. We made it the 2,000 miles home from Las Vegas to SC, but I replaced those old tires immediately due to the severe weather checking.
I bought 4 new DOT rated tires thinking the DOT rating would give me more reliability.
The replacement tires showed signs of wear after about 3,000 miles, and I had plans to tow the boat to Lake Powell which was 2,000 miles from home. I bought 4 new 'highway' tires and stuffed them in the bilge for insurance during the trip to Powell.
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New trailer skins in bilge. |
By the time I got to Powell the tread was gone on the DOT tires. I had the new 'highway' skins put on the trailer for the trip home.
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Gettin' new skins put on. |
I got roughly 5,000 miles out of those DOT tires.
Well now I'm getting ready for a trip to Florida and I discover a tread separation on my 'highway' tires. This was after about 5,000 miles.
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Tread separation and thin tread after only 5,000 miles. |
Further examination showed the tread was completely gone in sections of the other ST tires. This amounts to about $140/tire every 5,000 miles. We surely wouldn't put up with this on our passenger vehicles.
I needed tires that were rated for 3,000#. My boat and trailer came in at just shy of 12,000# but there's 1,200# tongue weight. The tires only need to support a load of a little less than 11,000#. The only non-ST tires in that load range were 16" LT tires, like the tires on my one ton van.
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I've got 120,000 miles on the van and am on only the 3rd set of tires. I need the same tires on my boat trailer. |
I learned that there were 16" rims available for my trailer but I had about an inch of clearance from the fender with the 8 X 14.5 tires and the fender was almost touching the boat. If I was going to consider 16" tires that were 2+" bigger in diameter, I would have to do something to the suspension to give me more tire to fender clearance.
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Fender can't be raised to accommodate larger diameter tires. |
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The 'real' tire will need more fender clearance. |
I thought about reversing the shackles or having a longer hanger welded to the frame to give me the clearance I needed. Shorter shackles might have been an option but I already had the shortest shackles available. Then a fellow boating buddy suggested a longer equalizer, and sent me a link to an equalizer that was 4" taller than the one I was using. It was just the ticket.
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This is the old equalizer and ST tires. The angle of the equalizer was because I had jacked up one axle. |
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Old equalizer removed. New equalizer below old one. |
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The new equalizer installed giving me ~4 more inches of tire to fender clearance. |
The new rims were about $50 apiece with free shipping. I placed the order at etrailer (https://www.etrailer.com/) on Sunday and the rims arrived on Wednesday. The equalizers were about $25 for two from etrailer and even though I ordered them after the rims had shipped I got the equalizers with the rims because I emailed the folks at etrailer and asked if they could combine the shipments - they couldn't but expedited the equalizers.. The tires from Walmart came in at less than $500 for 4 brand new "E" rated tires mounted on my new 16" trailer rims - these are the exact same tire I use on the van. I also sprung for 4 new shackle bolts at about $20 total. And now I have REAL tires on my boat trailer.
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New REAL tires on my boat trailer - SWEET! |
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Both of these tires are brand new. The one on the top is an ST tire with pasty shallow tread. The bottom tire is the real thing.
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Update as of 4-2015
I've been challenged many times about using non-ST tires on a trailer, but have yet to hear of anyone that was sorry they they went to passenger or LT tires on their trailer.
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