Wolf Pup - Under Bed Storage

I needed a way to make the storage under the queen bed usable. First I tried hinging a piece of PVC pipe at the base to swing up and use a prop to keep the bed up, but it was too hard for my wife to manage.

The solution was to use a pair of gas struts which she can manage easily getting open - and the compartment stays open, but she does have to use two hands to close it.

This didn't come easy though, there was much experimenting (about 3 hours worth) and I had to send the first pair of struts back and get a 'lighter' pair.

This is the pair I ended up with from Hatchlift.com, but because they sent replacement struts I can't be sure which kit would be the correct one to order. If you have a Pup, tell them this is the strut that works and ask which kit you need to order.

Further, because I was drilling so many holes to try to get things right, I installed a plywood strip along the top of the bed frame. The bracket you see below mounted on that plywood strip is not mounted in the recommended orientation. The instructions say to mount the flat edge up, but I found this way the bed stays in the down position better.

The two empty holes to the left are the recommended place to attach the bracket  (at 18" - with the pin to the bottom).  I originally tried the bracket there in the proper orientation. Then, after much experimentation, found that I liked it better the way you see it now.

Wolf Pup - Paper Towel Holder

This place is a very convenient place for a roll of paper towels. They're never in the way, but always handy. We use the small tear offs for napkins. Just make sure you don't poke a hole in the table top when you mount the holder.

RV Batteries

There's a popular practice of using two 6 volt golf cart batteries for RV power requirements. This is recommended especially if one is boondocking and must have reliable power for multiple days at a time. Part of this practice is making your batteries last longer by never running them below 50% capacity. I was a believer in this system many years ago when using my boat as a camper to Alaska and back but things have changed.

Today I use nothing but 12 volt starting batteries for all my power needs, both on my boat and with my Wolf Pup travel trailer. Here's why:

First off, there's less wiring to mess with using a single manageable battery. I can see using smaller batteries in place of a 4D or 8D where it's hard for one person to manage, but the 12 volt battery doesn't inspire me to go smaller, even at 70+ y/o.


With the golf cart batteries one needs to be aware of amp hours needed and used. You wouldn't want to run your golf cart batteries down past 50% or you'd shorten their life. And you should therefore have a battery bank that is twice what your needs are because you're only allowed to use half of it. Reminds me of my neighbor - he says he gets 2 years out of a pair of shoes. I told him I only get one year. What's the secret? He says the secret is to buy two pairs of shoes and switch every day - that way you get two years out of your shoes instead of only one. Anyway, the folks who enjoy getting the most life out of their batteries will also likely opt for an expensive multi-stange equalizing charger.

If one of your two 6 volt golf cart batteries goes south, you'll need to buy two, because you're not supposed to run 6's in series unless they are identical types and ages.

With the 12 volt battery I don't give a hoot about how many amp hours I've used and I'll run it flat without hesitation. This casual if not uncaring relationship with my batteries gives me more time to enjoy the energy they provide rather than worrying about whether I'm doing them any harm or if I've only got another few minutes of TV left - they'll tell me when they've had enough. And almost any charger will get the job done - well, except for those fancy multi-stage equalizing chargers that refuse to charge a dead battery.

So bottom line is I use only 12 volt starting batteries,don't care about counting amps,  maybe run them flat, use a cheap charger and generally beat them to an early death. I usually only get 3-4 years out of a battery - but that's all I expect for $100. And if they fail earlier or I just want a new battery for a long trip I'm about to take...I go to Walmart before the 3 years is up and tell them I want a new battery - or if I'm beyond 3 years, I get the prorated amount up to 5 years on my purchase of a new one.

 

 

Wolf Pup - Charging Station

These combo charging units are available on amazon and other places, and include:
lighted on/off switch
voltmeter
12 vdc cigarette plug socket
dual USB charging port

I removed/reinstalled the radio so I could wire the combo unit to the 12vdc feeds there - which in my rig are on all the time.

The basket is a place for the phone and catches the cords.  The other 'cup' keeps track of the remote for the TV. There is also a stick on tap light because it's hard to find the roof mounted interior light in the dark.  

Wolf Pup - Sewage

The sanitation hose comes standard with most travel trailers.

These things are bulky, need a precision angle to flow properly and are a bear to clean.

There's a better way. A macerator - which empties your tank(s) via a garden hose.
There are commercial varieties at the camping centers.
I'm a shade tree mechanic so I use a cheap model and modify it myself. I like to have a clear section so I know when the flow is clean or stops.

These need heavy amps of 12vdc, so a separate circuit is generally in order, although a battery jumper box may be used otherwise.

To empty the tank.
*remove the cap

*screw on the macerator

*attach a 3/4" garden hose to the macerator

I'm using 1/2" garden hose and haven't had a problem yet.

 *put the 'output' end of the hose in the sewage port
   this port may be at the campground, or a truck stop dump station, even a rest area toilet
*hook the macerator up to 12vdc
   it's nice to have a switch for this circuit, but if you're using a jumper box it's not necessary

*let the current and sewage flow
*unattach the hose and screw the ends together

*remove the macerator
*cap off both ends of the mascerator

*put the cap back on sewer outlet
*throw everything in the storage compartment and head down the road.

At the campground, I run the macerator only when the tank is nearing full, but if I'm at a campground for only a day or two I don't even hookup the macerator - I empty the tank into my septic system when I get home .

For convenience to a high amp 12vd circuit, I tapped into the TT power panel with 10g wire and made a port to get hold of the wire from inside the trailer.

 

 I also incorporated a lit switch in the circuit so if the macerator trips out (if run too long or it gets jambed) I know I still have power to the unit.

To me, this is the simplest and easiest way to deal with emptying the gray and black tanks.

Quit Using Your Head

Our Wolf Pup travel trailer came with a couple overhead cabinets. The kind that swing out and up. The only way to keep them open is to use your head while you rummage around in the cabinet.

Being a boater I knew of a simple solution.

When you open the cabinet, the spring pops into a locked straight position.

You just give the spring a tweak and the cabinet closes easily.

Here's one more tip while I'm at it. A handy place for a roll of paper towels is under the dinette table - for us especially, since it eliminates the need for napkins.

Honda 2000i VS Dometic 13,500 Air Conditioner w/ Micro-Air EasyStart

My new Wolf Pup travel trailer came with a Dometic 13,500 BTU rooftop air conditioner.

The Honda 2000i I had been using with the 9,000 BTU window unit on my van would not get the Pup's air conditioner going. My initial fix was to parallel the 2000i with a 1000i I had on hand and I had no reservations about this dual generator system - well except maybe, that it took two generators.

The trailer tray was designed to handle the 2000i The van's window unit can bee seen above the hitch mounted 2000i.

I'd heard about gizmos that would help the 2000i getting the 13,500 a/c going but was skeptical because they involved what seemed to be complicated wiring and some of them didn't have a good track record. Then I stumbled on Micro-Air EasyStart

What sold me on giving this unit a try, was the follow ups by the Micro-Air guy on several different forums. The responses were timely, sincere and informative...so I ordered one.

I'd seen the instructions and schematics on the Micro-Air web site, but when I got into my rooftop a/c I got a little nervous about where the four wires on the EasyStart were supposed to go.

I sent an email to the Micro-Air folks and got a reply in a matter of hours. This diagram helped me immensely.

 For starters, this diagram told me there is a white, blue and red wire coming from the compressor, and the compressor was the key to locating all the connections for the EasyStart. Each of these three wires is a player in the connections. I easily found the compressor because those 3 wires were bundled coming from a 'tower'.

If you follow the fat black wire coming out of the left side of the tower you will see the red, white and blue wires are just peeking out from the loom as it bends in toward the fan motor.

Now for the connections:
Trace the white wire back to the capacitor. It will be one of the white wires on top of this can.

Make sure you have the correct white wire. Now disconnect it remembering what pin it was attached to. Connect the brown wire from the EasyStart to the disconnected white wire. The instructions will say to use a butt splice but I used a male solderless terminal.

 Now connect the white EasyStart wire to the terminal that is now open from the removed traced compressor wire (that is now connected to the brown EasyStart wire).

Connect the orange EasyStart wire to the top of the same can where the red wire from the compressor is attached (as seen in the above pic).

The black wire from the EasyStart gets connected to the blue compressor wire. I used a yellow Posi-tap for this connection - it's not recommended on the instructions and doesn't follow 'code' but I wanted a way to easily remove the EasyStart and relocate it to a different air conditioner.

I then made a relief in the capacitor cover for the EasyStart wire bundle.

And to finish up, I laid the EasyStart alongside the capacitor cover and secured it with zip ties.

I may need to make a weather enclosure for the EasyStart unit, but this will do for testing and an initial road trip.

So, was all of this worthwhile? No question about it. The Micro-Air EasyStart easily gets the job done from eco-throttle.
Micro-Air EasyStart In Action


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