RV Batteries

There's a popular practice of using two 6 volt golf cart batteries for RV power requirements. This is recommended especially if one is boondocking and must have reliable power for multiple days at a time. Part of this practice is making your batteries last longer by never running them below 50% capacity. I was a believer in this system many years ago when using my boat as a camper to Alaska and back but things have changed.

Today I use nothing but 12 volt starting batteries for all my power needs, both on my boat and with my Wolf Pup travel trailer. Here's why:

First off, there's less wiring to mess with using a single manageable battery. I can see using smaller batteries in place of a 4D or 8D where it's hard for one person to manage, but the 12 volt battery doesn't inspire me to go smaller, even at 70+ y/o.


With the golf cart batteries one needs to be aware of amp hours needed and used. You wouldn't want to run your golf cart batteries down past 50% or you'd shorten their life. And you should therefore have a battery bank that is twice what your needs are because you're only allowed to use half of it. Reminds me of my neighbor - he says he gets 2 years out of a pair of shoes. I told him I only get one year. What's the secret? He says the secret is to buy two pairs of shoes and switch every day - that way you get two years out of your shoes instead of only one. Anyway, the folks who enjoy getting the most life out of their batteries will also likely opt for an expensive multi-stange equalizing charger.

If one of your two 6 volt golf cart batteries goes south, you'll need to buy two, because you're not supposed to run 6's in series unless they are identical types and ages.

With the 12 volt battery I don't give a hoot about how many amp hours I've used and I'll run it flat without hesitation. This casual if not uncaring relationship with my batteries gives me more time to enjoy the energy they provide rather than worrying about whether I'm doing them any harm or if I've only got another few minutes of TV left - they'll tell me when they've had enough. And almost any charger will get the job done - well, except for those fancy multi-stage equalizing chargers that refuse to charge a dead battery.

So bottom line is I use only 12 volt starting batteries,don't care about counting amps,  maybe run them flat, use a cheap charger and generally beat them to an early death. I usually only get 3-4 years out of a battery - but that's all I expect for $100. And if they fail earlier or I just want a new battery for a long trip I'm about to take...I go to Walmart before the 3 years is up and tell them I want a new battery - or if I'm beyond 3 years, I get the prorated amount up to 5 years on my purchase of a new one.

 

 

Wolf Pup - Charging Station

These combo charging units are available on amazon and other places, and include:
lighted on/off switch
voltmeter
12 vdc cigarette plug socket
dual USB charging port

I removed/reinstalled the radio so I could wire the combo unit to the 12vdc feeds there - which in my rig are on all the time.

The basket is a place for the phone and catches the cords.  The other 'cup' keeps track of the remote for the TV. There is also a stick on tap light because it's hard to find the roof mounted interior light in the dark.  

Wolf Pup - Sewage

The sanitation hose comes standard with most travel trailers.

These things are bulky, need a precision angle to flow properly and are a bear to clean.

There's a better way. A macerator - which empties your tank(s) via a garden hose.
There are commercial varieties at the camping centers.
I'm a shade tree mechanic so I use a cheap model and modify it myself. I like to have a clear section so I know when the flow is clean or stops.

These need heavy amps of 12vdc, so a separate circuit is generally in order, although a battery jumper box may be used otherwise.

To empty the tank.
*remove the cap

*screw on the macerator

*attach a 3/4" garden hose to the macerator

I'm using 1/2" garden hose and haven't had a problem yet.

 *put the 'output' end of the hose in the sewage port
   this port may be at the campground, or a truck stop dump station, even a rest area toilet
*hook the macerator up to 12vdc
   it's nice to have a switch for this circuit, but if you're using a jumper box it's not necessary

*let the current and sewage flow
*unattach the hose and screw the ends together

*remove the macerator
*cap off both ends of the mascerator

*put the cap back on sewer outlet
*throw everything in the storage compartment and head down the road.

At the campground, I run the macerator only when the tank is nearing full, but if I'm at a campground for only a day or two I don't even hookup the macerator - I empty the tank into my septic system when I get home .

For convenience to a high amp 12vd circuit, I tapped into the TT power panel with 10g wire and made a port to get hold of the wire from inside the trailer.

 

 I also incorporated a lit switch in the circuit so if the macerator trips out (if run too long or it gets jambed) I know I still have power to the unit.

To me, this is the simplest and easiest way to deal with emptying the gray and black tanks.

Quit Using Your Head

Our Wolf Pup travel trailer came with a couple overhead cabinets. The kind that swing out and up. The only way to keep them open is to use your head while you rummage around in the cabinet.

Being a boater I knew of a simple solution.

When you open the cabinet, the spring pops into a locked straight position.

You just give the spring a tweak and the cabinet closes easily.

Here's one more tip while I'm at it. A handy place for a roll of paper towels is under the dinette table - for us especially, since it eliminates the need for napkins.